The Çeşme coast has, at last count, more than twenty beach clubs worth the drive, a whole coastline of them, each with its own character. These are ours. Zoe Beach, Paşalimanı, a new favourite, and the one for exceptional warm water: tucked into a cove on the sheltered side of the peninsula, chic without a hint of pretension, with fantastic food and service that borders on seven-star. Social in feel but effortlessly comfortable — the easy one, for slow mornings and long lunches. Before Sunset, Ovacık — five minutes from Villa Laluli, and much the same feel by day. But on Friday and Saturday from five it turns: happy hour, then a proper party into the night. Zaya Beach, Altınkum — the most relaxing of them all. An untouched kind of beauty, where the decor melts into the landscape and yet the service, food and drink are unmistakably five-star. The water here is crisp, clean and bracingly cold , the sort of swim that leaves you feeling wonderfully alive. Fun Beach, Altınkum — the livelier one, all water sports, music and easy energy. The afternoon that turns into a day. Playa Tropicana, Altınkum — barefoot, sun-soaked, a little bit of the tropics on the Aegean with a cool trendy vibe. Swissôtel Beach, Ilıca — polished and full-service, on one of the region's most famous stretches of soft sand and very shallow warm waters and breezy all the time. Alaçatı beach — chic and social, the Alaçatı & international crowd at its most stylish. Right next to the surf schools. Seven of our favourites — and still barely a third of what's out here. And if all you want is a swim, the peninsula has public beaches right beside nearly every club, so the sea is always easy to reach.