Two villages within twenty minutes. Alaçatı: cobblestone lanes, whitewashed houses trimmed in blue, cafés that serve Turkish breakfast until noon. Urla: less polished, more working. Both host weekly markets. The region is known for small-batch wine — volcanic soil, indigenous grapes, producers who work by hand. Tastings can be arranged. So can introductions to ceramicists, weavers, olive oil pressers.